Saturday, August 25, 2007

Kenya Maasai Women Ecotourism - Kenya Tourism At Aid Of Women

Archers post town

This dusty, ramshackle town sits 33km north of Isiolo and is perfect for budget travelers visiting Samburu, Buffalo Springs and Shaba National Reserves. At night there’s definitely a Wild West feel about the place, with most vendors plying their goods by candlelight. There is a small market but little else in the way of services.

Kalama Wildlife conservancy

Eight Kilometres North of Archer’s post is the immense Kalama Wildlife conservancy (Admission including camping Kshs 1500) which was opened in 2004 and hosts wildlife including Grevy’s zebras, elephants and reticulated giraffes. The road network is still undeveloped, but guides (per day 500) lead walks and hikes up Kalama hill. Camping in their three sites is free with admission. This community run project supports hundreds of local families.

About 30km north of town and shrouded in Samburu folklore is the massive mesa of Ol Lolokwe. It’s a great day hike and, at sunset, light radiating off its rusty bluffs is seen for miles around.

Lodges camps and accommodation in Samburu

Don’t want to camp with the lions and leopards in the national reserve? Want to save some moolah? Head to Umoja campsite; camping Kshs 200) which sits on the Ewaso Ngiro’s banks between town and Archers’ post gate. Its run by women who’ve fled abusive husbands.

Those wanting a roof can crash at Acacia Inns Lkimairr Lodge (off A2 Hwy; s with shared bathroom Kshs 200). The mozzie net-clad rooms are simple and clean. Showers come in buckets and the toilets are crude but they are clean enough. There’s also a small thatched-roof cooking shelter for self caterers. Its enroute to Archer’s post gate and Umoja campsite. While Uaso cafĂ© (A2 Hwy; meals Kshs 60-150) isn’t the only restaurant in town, it’s the only place to eat-enough said.

Getting there and away

Matatus from Isiolo stop here enroute to Wamba (Kshs 250, 1 ¾ hours) and those coming from Wamba also pick up for Isiolo (Kshs 80, 45 Minutes)

Of abusive Husbands and Enterprising Women

In 1990, 15 Women who’d suffered too long from violent husbands abandoned their homes and started the village of Umoja (meaning ‘unity’ in Swahili), just outside archer’s post. They hoped to survive together by producing and selling traditional Samburu jewellery to tourists. It all proved rather successful and Umoja thrived, even opening a campsite a few years later.

Boosted by its success, 33 more women left unhappy situations and now call the women-only village home. Local men were fairly tolerant initially, but apathy became jealousy and they even set up rival trinker stalls nearby. After their stalls ‘utter failure and women’s continued success, there have been reports of angry men warning tourist vehicles not to visit Umoja.

Worse still are the recent raids of Umoja by men threatening these peaceful women with violence, something they had hoped to have left behind for good. While these women still need support, it would be wise to ask them about the security situation before dropping tent.

Either way supporting these women will mean you making a statement on domestic violence and economically empowering the women (who are very marginalize in the nomadic communities). The men folk, anyway, know better than attack a camper.

Robert is a travel expert in Kenya east Africa and tour consultant with Landmark Safaris. Make a free enquiry on other community & women ecotourism projects here. http://www.landmarksafaris.com/planner/?refferer=ezinearticles

2 comments:

philip said...

I remember about two years ago, my organization (Ecotourism Kenya) supported a project to upgrade the huts of these women and, at the end of the project, I went along with some other guys to train the women on proper guests' handling, book keeping among other basic skills. When we arrived, we were received with songs and dances like all the other times we had been there, our protestations notwithstanding. And each evening, we would relax at a campsite they had beside river Ewaso Nyiro where they would keep us company, explaining Samburu culture to us and regaling us with other wonderful stories. What pleased me was that even with the kind of background they had, they were not out to look for sympathy or money out of sob stories - they simply ensure that you relax and have a good time!

EcoTravelGuide said...

Thanks for sharing this, Philip! It's heartwarming to hear these experiences. I hope they continue to get supported, and I hope readers are inspired to visit them!